Artificial Turf
Putting Greens in Aurora, IL
A backyard green is a base problem dressed up as a golf project. The turf is short and uniform, so every soft spot, every wave in the aggregate and every seam shows up in the roll of the ball. A green that putts true was graded, compacted, and then compacted again before any turf came out of the roll.
Lux Landscaping Construction builds putting surfaces sized to the space you have, with the contours you want to practice and a fringe that makes the edge look deliberate. Estimates are free and written, naming the base build, the turf specification, the cup count and the fringe detail.
Who this is for
- You want somewhere to practice short putts and lag putts at home instead of driving to a practice green.
- There is an unused patch of yard, a side lawn or a flat terrace that would make a better green than a lawn.
- You have kids learning the game, and a green doubles as the part of the yard that always looks tidy.
- You already have turf elsewhere in the yard and want a practice surface that ties into it.
Scope
What the work covers
- Walkthrough to find the right location: usable size, sightlines from the house and the patio, sun and shade, and what the perimeter will be.
- Layout of the outline and the contours, agreed on the ground before excavation starts.
- Locates called, then excavation to depth with all organic material removed.
- Aggregate base placed and compacted in lifts, then shaped and screeded to the agreed contours and compacted again to a firm, true surface.
- Cups set with the base built up around them so the rim finishes flush, placed for the approach lines you want.
- Putting turf laid, seamed, trimmed, fixed at the perimeter, and infilled with sand to the depth that gives the speed you chose.
- Fringe collar of longer turf around the green, then a final rolling and brushing of the surface.
Options
What you can choose
Surface and speed
Putting turf comes in short, dense pile heights, and speed depends on the pile, the fiber type, how much sand infill goes in, and how hard the surface is rolled. More infill and more compaction gives a faster, truer surface. We agree the target at the walkthrough: a quick surface putts like a well-kept green, a slightly slower one is more forgiving for beginners.
Contour and breaks
A flat green is easy to build and dull to putt. Shaping the base with gentle rises, a tier, or a consistent fall across one side gives you breaks to read. Contours are built into the aggregate rather than into the turf, so they have to be agreed before the base is finished.
Cups, fringe and chipping
Cup count depends on size, and each cup needs its own approach from a different direction to be worth having. A fringe collar of longer turf frames the green and gives a surface to chip from. Where there is room, a separate chipping area or a short apron widens what you can practice.
Fit, sightlines and surroundings
A green reads best with something behind it: a planting bed, a fence line, a hedge. Size follows the space and what you want to practice, since short putting needs far less room than long lag putts. Edges can be cut into a lawn, run to a paver border, or set against a timber edge for a crisp line.
How we do it
The sequence on site
Site and layout
We walk the yard, pick the location for size, sun and sightlines, and lay the outline out so you can see it. Contours and cup positions are marked at the same time, before anything is dug.
Excavate and build the base
Locates are called, the area is excavated past all organic material, and geotextile goes over the clay subgrade. Aggregate is placed in lifts and compacted, building toward the shape rather than cutting it in at the end.
Shape and compact the surface
The final layer is screeded to the contours and compacted hard, then checked by eye and by rolling a ball across it. Soft spots and waves are corrected here, because they cannot be corrected once the turf is down.
Set cups and lay turf
Cups are set at the finished elevation with the base firm around them. Putting turf is laid with consistent fiber direction, seamed, and cut to the outline and around each cup, then fixed at the perimeter.
Infill, roll and fringe
Sand is applied and brushed in, the surface is rolled to bring it up to the speed we agreed, and the fringe collar is installed and trimmed. We putt it with you at the final walkthrough and go over brushing, topping up infill, and winter care.
Local conditions
What northern Illinois changes about this job
Winter and the thaw
A green can sit under snow all winter without harm and comes back when the snow goes. If you want to use it in a mild spell, clear snow with a plastic shovel or a broom, never a metal edge, and never a de-icer, which leaves residue in the infill. Expect it to putt slower while the surface is damp in early spring, then brush and roll it once it dries out.
Frost movement under a contoured base
Contours make any settlement visible, so the base gets more compaction than a lawn area would. Freeze-thaw works on anything loosely placed, which is why the aggregate goes in thin lifts and the surface is compacted and proof-rolled before turf. Drainage is part of the same answer: water that cannot sit in the base cannot lift it.
Leaves and shade
Greens in the western suburbs spend October under leaves. Blow or sweep them off rather than letting them break down into the sand, because organic matter in the infill slows the surface and holds moisture. A spot with some open sky dries faster after rain than one tucked under a canopy.
FAQ
Putting Greens questions
How much space do I need?
Less than people expect for short putting, and considerably more for long putts with real break. Rather than name a size, we lay the outline out on your lawn at the walkthrough so you can stand at the far end with a putter and decide.
How fast will it putt?
That is a choice, set by the turf, the infill depth, and how hard the surface is rolled, and we agree a target before the build. Speed also shifts a little with weather; brushing and rolling bring a surface back up when it slows.
Can I chip onto it?
Yes, with the right surface. Short putting turf takes wedge shots but shows marks and loses infill to heavy divots, so a fringe collar and an apron give you somewhere to land the ball. If chipping is a priority, say so at the walkthrough and the specification follows that.
What maintenance does a green need?
Brush it to keep the fibers upright, keep leaves and debris off it, top up the sand in the lines you putt most, and roll it occasionally if you want to hold the speed. No mowing, no watering, no fertilizer.
Can a green be built on a slope?
Yes, within reason. A slope can be cut and filled to create tiers or a consistent fall, which makes for more interesting putting, but the fill side has to be built and compacted properly or it settles. We look at the grade and tell you what is realistic for the space.
Free estimate
Ask about putting greens
Send the address and a short description. We will arrange a time to walk the site, then put the scope and the price in writing.